But for a cheerful displaced cousin who urged us to visit, our vacation plans would never have included an overland trip through Anchorage, Seward and Denali Alaska. After all, this is the State that elected Sarah Palin and all I could envision was a right wing gun culture that would make my trip unpalatable.
My perception was wrong. Alaskans are as diverse and outgoing as any place I have visited. This is the mysterious land of the June midnight sun, which only a few weeks later in August, is struck with the first “termination dust”, signaling a short fall and long winter. This is a vast land where planes (big & small), trains, boats, buses and automobiles all come into play to transport natives and travelers into various venues, spread far apart.
Alaska’s largest city, Anchorage provided our starting point and the first view of snow capped peaks. A friendly place with a small town feel, Anchorage is just perfect for adjusting to the four hour time difference. We took in two wonderful museums and a large weekend farmer’s and native craft market with even a booth supporting the Alaskan comic strip “Tundra”. We began immediately to feast on “just off the boat” salmon and haddock, along with caribou. Occasional taxi and foot power are all you need for this easy to navigate town.
We rented a car for three days to enjoy the trip to Seward on one of the world’s most scenic routes. This is an easy four hour drive that passes Alaska’s major ski resort, Alyeska, a great place for lunch. Another stop is the Conservation Center at Portage, featuring Alaska’s big five: wolves, brown bear, caribou, moose and dall sheep. There are also wood buffalo and musk ox reclamation projects on view.
Seward is a charming fishing town that houses an aquarium featuring local aquatic life. It is also the departure for an all day boating adventure in the bay, viewing sea life and calving glaciers. We saw humpback and orca whales, sea otter, seals, bald eagles, puffins, dauphins and other unique nesting birds. Shopping and restaurants abound in Seward. On the way back to Anchorage, we spent several hours at the Exit Glacier, which requires a fifteen minute walk and a fully charged camera. Black bear and moose are commonly seen on this easy trek.
Many travelers like us return to their anchor hotel in Anchorage to reboot for another phase of the trip. This is great for checking luggage and dirty laundry you don’t need. Early the next morning we caught our tour operator’s express bus for Denali National Park. We elected not to stay at the Gateway of the Park and transferred immediately into a second bus to head for our back country lodge. The lodges are not supported by the National Park Service and are privately owned. The lodges are not inexpensive at $400.00 per person per night, but offer an incredible wildlife and landscape viewing experience. No internet, phone or television service is available in the middle of Denali National Park.
The buses run by the private lodges are more comfortable and less crowded than the public Park Service buses. They provide the opportunity to meet your lodge mates, from around the world, and facilitate viewing space and photography. The drivers double as spotters and guides. The ninety mile six hour ride is not quite as eventful as the African Serengeti, but provides some of the best wildlife viewing in North America. On our trip in and out, we saw many brown bear, dall sheep and caribou, one moose and no wolf. We were treated to 15 minutes of a stalking lynx and a brown bear sleeping on a stone covered caribou carcass that provided some of our best photographs.
The highlight of Denali is of course Denali Mountain (Mt. McKinley) the “great one.” The highest peak in North America sits at the end of the Alaskan Chain, thirty miles from the back country lodges. If the timing and weather cooperate, the sight from base to peak is magnificent. We saw the mountain in its full glory on two of our three days. My wife took a small plane to photograph the peak on the third day, when clouds obscured the view.
Activities at the lodges are numerous including morning and afternoon hikes, fishing, panning for gold (not a bad choice in this economy) and nature and history talks. One morning we shed all of our layers as the temperature reached 70. The next we were in the alpine tundra on a ridge above the lodge in a snow storm. The grub is family style and wholesome.
At the end of our lodge experience, we returned to the park Gateway and boarded the Alaskan Railway for the return trip to Anchorage. The first class excursion cars offer glass dome viewing, standing platforms for photography and dining cars. We saw numerous bald eagles, tundra swan, sand hill cranes, and glimpses of moose. Again, the scenery was breathtaking.
We talked to other travelers who planned quite different itineraries, including extended cruises, small plane trips to view brown bear catching salmon, and of course fishing trips into the interior. Small children and families appeared to be having the time of their lives.
The overriding social perspective I took away from our experience was the conservation mindset of the Alaskan people. It reminded me that like Teddy Roosevelt, who started our National Park system, outdoorsmen, fisherman and hunters have often led the call for preservation in our country. Many of the eco systems are unique and fragile. Alaskans want the lower 48 to know that saving the tundra, glaciers and salmon runs are of utmost importance.
One can only guess why Sarah Palin is leaving this beautiful State for Arizona. The locals did not seem to mind my Obama 2012 button or her departure one bit. Take my word for it. Put Alaska on your short list.