THE FORTNIGHTLY, A WASHINGTON COUNTY INSTITUTION

Several years ago, I was invited to attend a dinner meeting at the Washington & Jefferson College Commons of one of Washington County’s most unique and under the radar organizations. Shortly thereafter, I was asked to join the group and readily became the newest inductee into The Fortnightly, a Washington County Institution.

The Fortnightly name comes from the original by-laws which direct the members: “to meet each fortnight with no more than two regular meetings to be held in any one calendar month.” The first meeting of the group occurred on November 16, 1882 in what is now the First United Presbyterian Church on West Wheeling Street. Since its inception, The Fortnightly has been an eclectic group of lawyers, physicians, college professors and theologians. The meeting format has evolved into a brief social fellowship that proceeds an informal dinner, followed by a business meeting, ending with a written presentation by one of the members and a Q&A session.

Since 1952, The Fortnightly has found a permanent home at W & J College, although it has never considered itself a college function or literary society.  The stated purpose in The Fortnightly by-laws is to provide “mutual entertainment and improvement through the discussion of suitable subjects.”  

Many well known local residents have graced the roles of The Fortnightly, over its long history.  Early member W.C. McClelland served the organization from 1889 until his death in 1925.  Physician and Coroner Earnest Abernathy was a member from 1956 through 1996.  Judge Alexander W. Acheson, a descendent from one of Washington County’s oldest families (1954-75); Reverend Reginald E. Dozer (1959-83); attorney James McCreight (1954-95); Observer Reporter Publisher John L.S. Northrop (1969-76) and farmer, historian and Meadowcroft Museum founder Albert Miller (1985-94) were all active members.

Several unwritten rules have emerged over the years to guide The Fortnightly speakers. First, partisan politics and religion are not appropriate topics for discussion. Second, speakers should refrain from framing their talk around their career or profession.  Third, the weekly discussion topic is presented to the membership in the form of a riddle and not disclosed until the speaker delivers his/her presentation.  Members are encouraged to bring guests both to hear their presentations and to introduce prospective new members to The Fortnightly program.

Since becoming a member, I have learned about the Underground Railroad in Washington County; the history of William Marshal, a medieval knight, Anglo-Norman soldier and statesman, who served five English kings; and plans to deflect wayward asteroids heading for our planet.  Over the years, topics have run the gamut from philosophy, science, history to the newspaper comics. When I return from a meeting of The Fortnightly there is always an interesting topic and often visual aids to discuss with my wife.

Recently, efforts have been undertaken to make The Fortnightly more relevant for the college community that surrounds our meetings and toward the public at large. At the suggestion of former member and humanist Richard Haddad, a scholarship was established that rewards a Washington & Jefferson student who is majoring in one of the liberal arts.  Each year the recipient of the scholarship is invited to become the designated speaker at an April meeting.

The Fortnightly realized that it was sitting on a treasure trove of unique history and scholarship stretching back over 130 years.  A project is almost complete to digitize all of our records in the form of meeting minutes and in some cases entire lectures.  All of the archives will be available to the public.

The challenge for The Fortnightly going forward will be to recruit new members who have the time to attend meetings and to prepare papers for presentation to the group. The challenge includes a dedicated effort to recruit more woman and minority participants.  Each member is normally called on once every other year to address the gathering, so this requirement is not onerous. The reward in meeting a new and well rounded group of friends, eager to discuss topics outside the ordinary, far outweighs the time and trouble.

The longevity of an organization like The Fortnightly depends on its ability to stay vibrant and relevant from one generation to the next.  At the same time, traditions and original purpose must be maintained. 

The Fortnightly, has struck the right balance and will continue to provide a forum for learning and understanding.  In the words of scientist Neil deGrasse Tyson: “know more today about the world than you knew yesterday and lessen the suffering of others. You'd be surprised how far that gets you.”

ENJOY ART AND RISE ABOVE THE MUNDANE.

“To become a maker is to make the world for others, not only the material world but the world of ideas that rules over the material world, the dreams we inhabit and dream together.” Rebecca Solnit

Established art museums around the world continue to draw in large crowds. There is competition with one another to stage monumental exhibitions of works by classical masters and newer modern artists. Last month, within days after the Louvre in Paris announced the largest exhibit of Leonardo Di Vinci paintings and sketches ever assembled, over 260,000 advanced tickets were sold.

Recently, the Arab world has challenged Europe by becoming a new cultural center with The United Arab Emirates capital of Abu Dhabi investing in art museums.  The Louvre Abu Dhabi opened in 2017, the Zayed National Museum is well underway, and plans for a branch of the Guggenheim have been announced.

If one is searching for a diverse cross section of humanity, all participating in the same activity, an art museum is the ideal place to go. Whatever the nationality or language, or background, art naturally causes something to stir up in the mind.  The emotion may be curiosity, awe, or frustration at not being able to grasp the artist’s intent, but it awakens something in all of us.

 Art has the ability to change perspectives, to look at life in different ways. Consider the different emotions one feels when viewing the enormous scale of Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel; the minute details of Starry Night as envisioned by Van Gogh from his asylum room just before sunrise; the curious splatters created by Jason Pollock; or the political message embodied in Picasso’s epic mural Guernica. Each work so different, inspired by pure ideas and histories, born from a few supplies and a vision singular to the artist.

An art museum is a visual library with each painting telling a story. It is an impossible task to “take in” the entire collection, or even one floor. The average person spends 17 seconds looking at a work of art in a museum, intent on quantity over quality. Understanding each work of art requires the dedication to slow down, observe and interpret.

Experience has taught my wife and me to find a short term special exhibit that draws our attention and to read about the curator’s intent before seeing the paintings. We will often purchase the gift shop exhibition guide to help us along.  Many of the exhibits we have attended in recent years are designed to focus on a certain period of an artist’s career or to show collaboration and inspiration among artists of the same period. All have left us energized and eager for more.

Over the years we have adopted one late Renaissance artist, Caravaggio, as our special favorite.  We have scheduled a unique tour in Rome to view his work in small churches and always seek out his paintings wherever we travel.  We have read about his boisterous lifestyle and can feel his spirit in his work, which influenced so many later artists.

So how can a family situated in Southwestern Pennsylvania learn to appreciate art? Most accessible are the local schools, art galleries and libraries that feature resident artists from time to time. Washington County has developed a thriving art colony over the years that is well represented in nearby venues.

A short drive will open a completely new level of exposure to viewing art. The Pittsburgh Frick Museum, The Carnegie Art Museum and the Andy Warhol Museum all offer excellent viewing experiences without being overwhelming.  It is a good idea to sign up for the museum newsletters online to find out about ever changing exhibits. Westmoreland County features a hidden jewel of an art museum, in Greensburg.  It is truly a regional collection with a national presence.

For the more adventurous with a weekend to spend, New York City (the Met., MOMA, The Frick, among others); Philadelphia (The Barnes, The Museum of Art); and Washington D.C. (The National Gallery, National Museum of Art, National Portrait Gallery) all offer world class experiences. While any destination will be rewarded, our recent favorite is the Barnes, a new modern museum with outstanding lighting, which features one of the best impressionist collections to be found anywhere.

Lastly, on a cold winter’s night, when television reruns and cable news do not excite, there are excellent presentations of art from the world’s great museums on the internet. Staging a Michelangelo, Di Vinci, Van Gogh, or Picasso evening can be great fun, especially when accompanied by a biographical movie or National Geographic Special about the painter.

Art appreciation takes some work.  One must break away from what is habitual and ordinary in order to take in that which may not at first be clear.  But the reward is a deep, mysterious and beautiful experience, that one shares with all of humanity. According to Frederick Nietzsche: “we have art in order not to die of the truth.” In today’s political climate, he may have been on to something.

GRATITUDE, JOY AND REFLECTION

When it comes to the impeachment proceedings, the Democrats have drawn a bad hand. Attempting to move the electorate toward support for removing the president during the holiday season, between Thanksgiving and the New Year, may be an impossible task.  As go voter’s opinions and attention spans, so go the members of the Senate in an impeachment trial.   

The gratitude of Thanksgiving, joy of giving at Christmas and Hanukkah and personal reflection in the New Year do not encourage the mindset that is needed to punish the President for his conduct.  It is difficult to watch multiple holiday movies and specials on redemption and second chances and then to send the President packing back to Trump Tower.

On the other hand, perhaps this same six week period of holiday cheer, family sharing, spiritual renewal and resolutions for self-improvement, is the perfect time to reset the national mood toward a commitment of reconciliation with those we disagree.  A bit of spiking the eggnog with tolerance and understanding.

With this thought in mind, I have reviewed the literature of several well-known philosophers, educators and political commentators, in search of some answers.  Does it make sense to articulate a common creed, a national project that all Americans believe in?  Is it within our better nature for all of us to give something of value to members of the other tribe with whom we so vehemently disagree? Is the traditional model of representative democracy still possible in America?

First, consider the gratitude of Thanksgiving where we often take time to remember the goodness that life has bestowed upon us.  Conservative historian, David Kennedy, has some interesting thoughts on developing an “American Creed” for which we can all be grateful. (WSJ Weekend Interview, November 30, 2019)  He believes that diverse societies like the United States require stories and myths to articulate what we all have in common.  He laments that many historians have forgotten this point by celebrating differences rather than what the nation is working toward collectively.

Professor Kennedy scolds Trump supporters who have forgotten that America’s absorption of immigrants has always been exceptional, throughout our history. He likewise criticizes liberal thought for placing cultural differences on a pedestal rather than supporting assimilation of new Americans.  He also takes a swing at progressives by pointing out that the American Creed has always been resistant to socialism.

In the interest of reconciliation and gratitude, Mr. Kennedy would emphasize return to a master narrative about American History that embodies: “the perfection of the idea of democracy in this country. The process was incremental, slow and back and forth, but it gave Americans a way to talk about their national project.”

Second, consider the joy of giving over the holidays as a platform for reducing animosity and disrespect for those with opposing political views.  Conservative commentator George Will’s political philosophy as espoused in his recent book, The Conservative Sensibility, is a good place to start.

Mr. Will believes that our founder’s vision was one of limited government, separation of powers, maximal federalism and inviolable individual freedom.  Conservatives have given us the impulses to keep politics in its place and religion outside of government. We should all welcome the conservative gift of giving American society adequate time to breathe, to live and innovate on its own, which gives the nation a healthy ballast.  It would be well for progressives to remember that our most radical movements for change, including suffrage, civil rights and sexual freedom all invoked conservative expressions of America’s founding ideals, found in the Declaration of Independence and Constitution, rather than rejecting them.

On the opposite side of the political spectrum, liberals have many gifts to offer their conservative counterparts. Republicans would do well to review recent history when many democrats under President Woodrow Wilson were as nativist as Trump Republicans are today. After Wilson, Democrats finally changed their policies and began inviting immigrants into the party. After 1932, Democrats held the White House for five terms, the most dominate run in American history.  There are many Latin and Asian immigrants who believe in conservative values, if the Republican Party gives them the chance to join the American experience.

John McGowan, distinguished professor and author of American Liberalism: An Interpretation of Our Time (2007), offers up several endearing liberal gifts for all of us to enjoy this year: trust in a constitutionally established rule of law, a conviction that modern societies are irreducibly plural, the promotion of a diverse civil society, and a reliance on public debate and deliberation to influence others' opinions and actions.

Lastly, let us consider the reflection that comes with the New Year. Ronald Dworkin, among the world’s leading legal and political philosophers, called for a new political debate in his short 2006 treatise, Is Democracy Possible Here?  Dworkin was concerned with the animosity and lack of civil political argument that existed during the presidency of George W. Bush.  He  would not live to experience the Trump years.

Dworkin’s goal was to develop baseline precepts that all political actors could both agree and reflect on before making their separate arguments on the issues facing America. As with many other observers, he understood the tension between liberal views on equality and conservative views on liberty.  He did not believe these two founding principles were incompatible.

Dworkin’s two basic beliefs of human dignity are that: (1) each human life has a special kind of objective value (equality) and (2) each person has a special responsibility for realizing the success of his own life (liberty).

Assuming that all of us can agree on these points, liberals and conservatives can each seek to build well-reasoned arguments on taxation, human rights, foreign aid, the environment, the role of religion and abortion. While Dworkin takes the liberal position and frames his analysis accordingly, he issues a challenge for conservative thinkers and policy makers to do the same.

Happy holidays to the readers of the Observer Reporter. May you all find abundant rational political discourse in 2020.

GOVERNMENT LED BY THE UNINTERESTED AND THE UNINFORMED

The impeachment hearings that took place over two weeks presented a complex scenario for the American public to follow. The post-cold war relationship between Russia, Ukraine and the United States, that sets the background for the hearings, is even more complicated and was little discussed by the congressional committee or the media.  Without this historical context, the average listener would have no reason to understand the importance of Ukraine to American foreign policy. (for background see: Foreign Affairs, 11/22/19, The Shoals of Ukraine, Where American Illusions and Great-Power Politics Collide, Serhii Plokhy and M. E. Sarotte) 

The hearings, designed to gather facts for articles of impeachment, were evidence of something more ominous than a one-time quid pro quo between the Trump administration and Ukraine. The important revelation for me was understanding the chaos that results when the federal government is led by a White House that is uninterested in following accepted procedures and uninformed on its own foreign policy. My fear is that what has been exposed is only one small example of the governance crises yet to come as a direct result of Trump’s hubris and ignorance.

Of the witnesses that testified, all but one, EU Ambassador Gordon Sondland, were long standing, highly qualified career diplomats and policy experts.  The experts understood the background on Ukraine and the disinterested and uninformed policies that brought us to a constitutional crisis.  Mr. Sondland, on the other hand, was a political appointee who paid one million dollars to the Trump inauguration to gain his position.  Like the President, Mr. Sondland’s background was in the hotel business.  He had no training or experience in diplomacy. 

The loosest canon in this fiasco is Rudy Giuliani, the President’s personal lawyer.  Mr. Giuliani was not a diplomat and in recent years made millions giving speeches and selling himself as a security consultant to authoritarian governments.

None of the well trained policy experts and diplomats had any contact with the President. They all had valuable information to share concerning Ukraine’s immediate need for military assistance.  Their reasoned advice to superiors on the Ukraine political situation and timely warnings to department lawyers were subject to formal protocol and went unheeded.

Only the players with no historical knowledge or diplomatic experience, Giuliani and Sondland, had direct access to the President.  Both either encouraged or were on board with what Trump wanted to accomplish.

It is impossible to know whether the ill-advised scheme leading to impeachment would have occurred if White House advisers interested and informed about Ukraine were in place.  Reports of the White House in 2017-2018 indicated that the Chief of Staff, White House Counsel, National Security Adviser and key Cabinet heads, all had some positive influence over the President.  These officials were able to discourage outrageous or illegal behavior on the part of the President on numerous occasions.

Unfortunately, all of the “adults in the room” are long gone and the President has only his own political instincts, his limited knowledge of the federal bureaucracy, his inexplicable pro Russian, anti European view of foreign policy and the commentators on Fox News to guide him. My conjecture is that as uninterested and uninformed political appointees continue to advise the President, the worst is yet to come and that Ukraine and impeachment will be the least of our concerns.

First, consider that the President’s son-in- law, Jerad Kushner, has been given an exclusive profile over foreign policy in the Middle East.  Mr. Kuschner is yet another Trump insider with knowledge of the hotel business and with no diplomacy experience. Both the FBI and CIA recommended that Kuschner not receive top level security clearances, a decision overruled by the President. 

No one seems to know what Jared is up to but his progress on the President’s “ultimate deal” between Israel and Palestine has gone nowhere. In September, the only seasoned diplomat reporting to Jared, Jason Greenblatt, left the White House and was replaced by Avi Berkowitz, a young recent graduate who previously was Mr. Kuschner’s errand boy.  (Politico, 9/6/19: Can Jared’s millennial “mini me” bring peace to the Middle East?)

Second, is the State Department, where key professionals either resigned or were terminated by the previous Secretary of State and ignored by the present placeholder, Mike Pompeo.  Mr. Pompeo is reportedly going to run for the Senate and spends as much time in Kansas as Washington.  His goal is to agree with and not upset the President.

Third, there is no coherent policy toward either North Korea or Iran, other than Trump’s wish for bilateral meetings.  Both countries have rejected this outreach and continue to solidify their nuclear capabilities.

Fourth, no one knows what other promises, commitments or self serving deals may have been made by the President to other heads of state.

Fifth, the chaos in governance that was evident during the impeachment hearings did not go unnoticed by Russia, China and other foreign governments. Whether Trump would encourage a foreign military engagement to take off the impeachment heat is unknown. What is known is that uninformed foreign policy decisions made for personal or political reasons are not in the country’s best interests.

I would propose that Republican Senators exercise the art of the deal with the President.  In return for supporting him in the upcoming impeachment trial, insist on the following:  1) that a bipartisan foreign policy expert sit in on all conversations with foreign leaders and review transcripts of prior conversations, with authority to report problems to Congress; 2) that the White House move quickly to fill all staff positions in the foreign policy apparatus with qualified candidates; and that 3) the President remove his son- in- law from responsibility for the Middle East and replace him with a seasoned expert. 

Such moves would exercise responsible oversight and could save America from another constitutional crisis, or much worse.

WASHINGTON COUNTY (MORE THAN EVER) NEEDS A DIVERSITY COMMISSION

Sometimes when I pick up the newspaper, the topic for an opinion article slaps me in the face. No, not the impeachment hearings that are receiving more than enough coverage from every conceivable angle.  The November 1, 2019 Observer Reporter featured two front-page articles on what happens in a community that is not proactive on the issue of diversity and ethnic inclusion.

In the same issue was a glossy full color magazine published by the local Chamber of Commerce and Tourism Agency. Twenty-eight Community leaders are featured.  One is a black woman, four are white women and the rest are white men.  One of the articles is entitled “Growth Driven by Working Together.”  There is no discussion on addressing economic or social diversity within Washington County.

The first front page article discussed a recent outbreak of students from Canon McMillian School District circulating racially insensitive videos on Facebook.  The school superintendent was quoted as saying: “we need to address it [racism] head-on and meet the challenge.”  The response to this incident was scheduling a school assembly with a professor who specializes in diversity and inclusion.

The second prominent front page article was a summary of this professor’s high school assembly at Canon-McMillan, designed to address the racism. The reporting summarizes an effective presentation designed to leave students with a message on kindness and acceptance.  More initiatives are on the horizon to extend the school district’s “No Place for Hate” program.

The response of Canon McMillan to the hateful incident was certainly welcome and encouraging.  But those of us who care about diversity were not heartened by the bimonthly Inside Washington County Chamber of Commerce Magazine.  The issue was titled: “Washington County…An American Success Story”. The Chamber trumpeted low taxes and the opportunity for outsized profits as the foundation that makes Washington County successful.  Other business leaders discussed the ability to adapt to changing conditions brought on by the oil and gas industry. The Tourism Promotion Agency was proud of the many domestic and international visitors that travel to Washington County each year.

While all of these points were valid, something was sorely missing in addressing what makes Washington County successful.  There was no discussion of the diversity that exists in Washington County and the part that minorities play in our success. There was no plan by our mostly white leadership to encourage others of different ethnic, cultural and religious backgrounds to invest, live and work here.  Moreover, there was no commitment to business diversity that should include the nurturing of entrepreneurs in economically challenged neighborhoods as well as large corporations in Southpointe.

Without a proactive diversity plan in place: racism in our schools; minority hiring in our police forces, courts and county offices; and incentives for minority businesses and professionals in all fields to make Washington County their home will not be addressed on a comprehensive basis.  County leaders will continue to react to racist incidents as they occur rather than to fashion a plan to avoid them.  New business initiatives will follow the same tired homogeneous model rather than incubate diverse paths to success.

What is to be done? Look no further than Lehigh County, our neighbor to the east, with a population of 366,000 compared to the 207,000 who reside in Washington County.  Like Washington County, Lehigh County is undergoing an economic resurgence due to its location near New York City and Philadelphia.  Unlike Washington, Lehigh has recently announced its commitment to diversity.

An impressive array of regional organizations (including the local chamber of commerce) have come together on a project called “Color Outside the Lines” to develop a strategic plan designed to remove the systemic and structural barriers to racial equity and inclusion.  In an October 2019 press release, it was announced: “In an us-versus-them world the process needs everyone to be us. This is an opportunity to learn how much we are all better off when we are all better off. Lets show the rest of the nation what it means to be from Lehigh County.”  The strategic plan will be developed through a series of workshops, community meetings, conferences and trainings.

Before Washington County undergoes a comprehensive strategic diversity plan, it needs a forum dedicated to the needs of local minorities.  Accordingly, I will renew my call for a diversity commission, appointed by the county commissioners, but independent of direct county oversight.  The commission needs the legitimacy of a formal appointment to gain traction in the community. However, it must also be independent of any political pressures so that its members are free to point out diversity and inclusion deficiencies within municipal and county government. 

Clearly, the time for such a commission, or other appointed working group, is long overdue.  We can start by recognizing that when every community flourishes, Washington County is truly an American success story.

HOW TO TALK ABOUT POLITICS

In my lifetime our country and indeed much of the western world has not been as polarized over partisan politics.  Even the tumultuous 1960s and 70s, when Vietnam, civil rights and the Nixon impeachment divided the country, did not appear as divisive as today’s social media fueled political atmosphere.  With the prospect of a presidential impeachment inquiry and a national election on the horizon, getting along with those with differing political views is bound to get worse. To counter this tendency I will describe some of my experiences and offer ideas on how to talk about politics.  

  

I am not suggesting that those who care about our political system should stop participating in the debate. As concerned citizens, it is our civic responsibility to speak out against policies that threaten the political, social, economic and ethical positions we believe in.  But political discourse can be accomplished in a fashion that seeks to build consensus rather than to tear down, that is open to other opinions and considerate of other points of view. 

Making fun of or degrading political leaders and their followers from the opposing party has become a fool’s errand for both Democrats and Republicans.  It can only result in emotional responses and increased hostility.  I have decided to leave this task to the late night comedians, political cartoonists, and the cable news talking heads.

My goal when I make a point, post on social media or comment in public will be to focus on the positive.  Quotes by or about Elijah Cummings, Maya Angelou, Martin Luther King Jr. and political philosophers often get at the position I want to emphasize in a positive manner.  In my experience, providing a thought that highlights the optimistic “what could be” rather than the negative of “what is wrong” has greater impact in getting others to consider an opinion.

When I speak with Republicans about politics, I now try to differentiate between “Party Republicans” and “Trump Republicans.” Rather than criticize Republican views on conservative and/or religious principles, I first seek to determine whether my opponent would give up Trump for another conservative political leader if all policy results were the same (abortion, Supreme Court appointments, tax cuts, regulations, etc.). I have found that separating Trump with his destructive tweets and dangerous precedents for running the presidency from policy positions opens up avenues for constructive discussion on important issues. Moreover, I believe that many Party Republicans are not Trump Republicans and that this fact will ultimately determine the President’s political fate.

I will continue to respond to posts and articles that are factually wrong or misplaced.  Recently a conservative family member re-posted an NPR piece on young people in Sweden implanting a financial chip into their arm. He turned the article into an anti-socialism rant when the reporting was simply pointing out Sweden’s move to a cashless society. I pointed out his mistake and we had a constructive on-line discussion.

One of my favorite columnists is Tim Hartford, aka the undercover economist, who writes for the Financial Times. In a recent column (10/12/19), he laments the effects of Brexit on British society.  He makes the excellent point that: “It’s tempting to obsess about the tone of politics, but that is a trap.  If we spend our time wringing our hands over the form of the political conversation, it leaves little space to think about the content.”

Mr. Hartford offers three ideas on how to talk about politics that I find refreshing.  First, when faced with someone whose politics you dislike, engage on what can be done to solve an issue that both agree requires resolution.  

Refrain from sinking into a food fight on which politician is the most despicable.

Second, stop scorning others who you believe to be under-informed.  Most of us know less about complex issues than we think we do. Just because one reads the Economist or Foreign Affairs does not mean that the individual understands the history and solutions for immigration at the southern border or the interests of the multitude of factions involved in northern Syria.  Unless one is a constitutional scholar, it is difficult to grasp the nuances of the emoluments clause, the limits of presidential power or impeachment.  All are complicated.  Most people who are willing to engage on such topics have something to point out worth considering.

Third, people on the other side of the debate, like all of us, want the best for their family and the country. Living in a society where one-half the citizens are considered either ignorant or wicked or both may provide fertile ground for certain politicians but is barren ground for the rest of us.  

We can do better.  If nothing else, hug the uncle who exasperates you.

A TRIP TO THE MIDDLE OF ITALY

The Italian economy and social structure is similar to a many layered cake.  At the top in the north is the thick butter cream icing.  Much of the industrial and financial wealth is concentrated here and life is good.  At the bottom of the Italian boot is a thick crusty base where poverty and unemployment are high. The governmental infrastructure flourishing in the north is difficult to find in Southern Italy.  Not surprisingly, many of the Italian families who immigrated to Western Pennsylvania in the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries can trace their heritage back to Calabria in the southern portion of Italy.

 In early October, my wife and I traveled with a group of local attorneys and other interested parties to the center of the Italian layer cake.  We spent three full days in Sorrento on the western coast below Naples; three days in beautiful Florence and three days in Rome. Each area was distinctive and held its special charms.

Sorrento is the gateway to the Italian Mediterranean playground. Beaches, yachts and sunburned tourists are the order of the day. Our hotel in Sorrento looked out onto the Bay of Naples with Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii, off in the distance.  Both the Amalfi coastline and the Island of Capri are within easy reach. The breathtaking ride to Amalfi along the switchback costal road reminded me of the Big Sur portion of Highway One in California. Local ceramics, seafood restaurants and expensive hotels built into the bluffs over the Mediterranean are what make this area so desirable.

A short hydrofoil boat ride transports tourists to Capri. The Island has always been known for its limoncello liqueur and lemon perfumes. More recently Capri has become the destination of the rich and famous from around the world. Every upscale designer and boutique is represented along the narrow winding streets. A ski lift takes tourists to the top of the Island to view the panorama of olive groves and sea below.

The next leg of our journey took us north to Florence via high-speed train from Naples. The view from our window changed to rolling hills filled with vineyards, ancient towers and Tuscan villages. We spent the afternoon on a walking tour of old Florence, which included Michelangelo’s David, the Duomo and the Baptistery with its famous bronze doors.

For shoppers, among the attractions in Florence are leather goods, truffles and finely crafted gold and silver jewelry.  For lovers of Renaissance history and art, Florence is ground zero. The Medici family made their money in banking, not considered an acceptable vocation by the local nobility. Cosimo de Medici, “father of the fatherland”, and his prodigy responded by using their vast wealth to rebuild Florence into a showcase, utilizing the talents of Italy’s greatest creative minds.  The buildings, houses of worship, sculptures, and paintings make Florence, in my humble opinion, the most beautiful city in the world.

The next day, under the bright Tuscan sun, we spent the morning in the towering walled, hill town of San Gimigano.  The trek up the steep hill to the town square was rewarded with incredible vistas of Tuscany, cottage linen shops and what is regarded as the best gelato in Italy.

The afternoon was a true adventure at the Tenuta Torciano Winery in the Tuscan countryside. This 15^th generation family business has over a thousand acres under cultivation. The grapes are planted under different soil conditions that produce several world class varieties of wine.  We were heartily welcomed by the owner and invited to participate in a truffle hunt; vespa scooter rides through the vineyards; and a cooking class. The evening festivities featured a six-course dinner with wine tasting.  Many in our group ordered wine, olive oils and a 30 year old balsamic, all sent home in time for the holidays. 

On our last day in Florence the group was free to explore the museums and shopping. My wife and I had been to Florence several years ago and missed the Palatine Gallery and Gardens at the Pitti Palace, the residence of the Medici family. We trekked across the Ponte Vecchio covered bridge that crosses the Arno river, shopping and eating along the way.  The Pitti Palace was not as crowded as other attractions and was well worth our effort.  At sunset we returned to our hotel with spectacular photo ops along the way. As we packed for Rome, an opera singer serenaded us from the courtyard below.

Another high-speed train delivered our group south to Rome for our final destination. There was no evidence that the tourist season was winding down, with large crowds at every attraction. Not even an early morning arrival at the Vatican could escape the throngs lined up for the Vatican museums, Sistine Capel and St. Peter’s Basilica. The Trevi Fountain was surrounded by thousands of spectators, as were the Spanish steps.

Our last day was a free one and our destination was the Capitoline Museums on the Roman Hill with the same name.  Again, we were in luck as all the tourists appeared to be braving the hot sun and were wandering outside through the Forum and Palatine Hill. A special exhibit highlighting the life and paintings of Luca Signorelli held our interest along with some of the more important archeological discoveries found in Rome and the surrounding area.  Other members of our group ventured to the Borghese Gallery and Museum or to the Coliseum.  

While all of Italy is a tourist mecca, the center layers of this amazing country offer a great deal to see and do. My summary of the trip has skipped the long luxurious suppers, which are a story in themselves.  One day we will return to tour the north and take in Venice, Lake Como and Milan. In addition, we will plan a future trip to Calabria in the south to find my wife’s ancestral roots.

THE END OF DEMOCRACY

Politico Magazine (September 8, 2019) recently set off a firestorm of discussion when it highlighted an academic paper presented by the renowned political scientist, Shawn Rosenberg. Mr. Rosenberg concluded that: “democracy is devouring itself- and it won’t last.”  His premise is that social media has diluted the ability of society’s elites to guide self-rule along a responsible path.  In their place, he argues, the masses now control the political process and they are ill equipped to run a well-functioning democracy as envisioned by the founders.

 Politico Magazine summarizes the argument as follows:  “Democracy is hard work and requires a lot from those who participate in it. It requires people to respect those with different views from theirs and people who do not look like them.  It asks citizens to be able to sift through large amounts of information and to process the good from the bad, the truth from the false.  It requires thoughtfulness, discipline and logic.”

Rosenberg sees the end of democracy as imbedded in the human tendency to seek out simple solutions to complicated problems when given the chance.  Thus, when a cascade of unfiltered sources of information push out an easy to digest combination of xenophobia, racism and authoritarianism as the path to a better life, it is difficult for many Americans to ignore. The reptilian brain is offered up a sugar high that encourages the replacement of thoughtful democratic pluralism with a populist plan to have no tolerance for members of other tribes.

Rosenberg does not place the blame for the end of democracy on Donald Trump. I would agree that these tendencies existed long before the internet exploded, during the eight years of the George W. Bush presidency. The information fueled populism smoldered during the Obama presidency and reignited in 2015, when Trump was running for office.  Ironically, the more open, free and “democratic” the flow of unfettered information, the less responsible the electorate has become.

To save democracy in our constitutional republic, is it time to turn to the philosopher kings envisioned by Plato for their non-partisan wisdom? Is it time to replace the unwashed masses with a few good men who can lead us through the wilderness?  I think not. 

In the pre internet decades, when money, politics and power from both political parties exercised greater control over the electorate, inequality rose to unprecedented levels.  Wealth begat more wealth at the expense of middle class prosperity.   Voters were presented with too few choices.  Selective agendas were formulated in the political back rooms and corporate board rooms. Clearly, top down democracy is as unacceptable as unchecked populist democracy.

So what is to be done?  There is no putting the information genie back in the bottle.  Responsible democratic pluralism must adapt to the new reality of opinions and misinformation masquerading as facts. Our long heritage of freedom of expression (not to mention the Constitution) would not permit the formation of “information police” to determine what is factual versus what is harmful to a democracy.

I will offer two thoughts that could represent small steps in returning to a healthy democratic pluralism.  First, Congress should adopt a bi-partisan national initiative to use debate technology in the public schools to teach critical observation from different perspectives.  Not the ego driven debate techniques found in political campaigns, but the fact driven methods taught in formal debating.

I still fondly remember my 8^th grade debating experience incorporated into the social studies curriculum. The topic was foreign aid and many of the issues remain the same in today’s political environment. The participants spent many hours researching their positions and the final debate was presented to the elementary school community.

I can think of no better platform than formal debating to prepare students for the opportunities and dangers of the information age. Such an addition would mandate increased emphasis on social studies and government, both sorely lacking. Students would develop skills in research, the weighing of alternative positions, organization, persuasion, communication and civic awareness.

My second suggestion would require individual and community effort to implement.  It has become obvious to me that face-to-face communication is a valuable tool in counteracting the excesses and falsehoods of the information age.  Actively listening, building trust, fostering relationships and letting others give feedback is a constructive way to address sensitive political, social, and economic issues.

Communities need to take the lead in sponsoring discussion forums in their libraries, places of worship and education campuses.  With the appropriate moderator, a diverse group of citizens can come to understand opposing points of view without the rancor or emotional outbursts so common on social media.  The goal is respectful tolerance for alternative positions, not to change anyone’s mind.

In my own experience, a book club is an excellent forum to consider alternative points of view. There are many other social gatherings that can achieve a cross pollination of ideas.  The only requirement is that the membership be diverse to avoid “preaching to the choir.” In this regard, meetings of partisan political organizations are of little benefit.

 The information age is not going away.  The internet and social media will remain a potent force in shaping our political future.  It is important that we take steps to insure that all reasonable views are open for discussion and that voters learn skills to identify, challenge and reject misinformation.

Will encouraging debating skills and community meetings alone abate the erosion of democracy? Probably not, but we need to start somewhere.

THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT

“Sometimes, I feel I gotta get away
Bells chime, I know I gotta get away
And I know if I don't, I'll go out of my mind
Better leave her behind with the kids, they're alright
The kids are alright”  THE WHO

We recently attended a wedding in Pittsburgh, organized by and populated with millennials. Nothing about the ceremony or reception was traditional.  The few baby boomers in attendance could not help scratching their heads at the audacity of young people changing the rules of getting married.  By the end of the evening, I grudgingly had to admit, the future of America is secure.  The kids are alright.

To describe the wedding, is to enter an alternative reality of a communal gathering to honor an exchange of vows. Rather than a house of worship, the location was an old warehouse where nymph like twenty somethings practice the art form made famous by Cirque du Soleil. During the pre-dinner reception, guests were in awe of acrobatic performances above their heads.

The bride and groom met while swing dancing and both have a special affinity for tacos.  The former provided the post dinner entertainment and the latter the theme for the wedding appetizers and buffet.  There was no wedding cake.  A well-stocked cookie table and bar provided the sweets and lubrication for the occasion. 

The parents of the groom are close friends, so we were observers to the lead up of the wedding. The newly married couple have secure employment and utilized a parental loan to purchase a home in the heart of Pittsburgh. Senior wedding guidance was brushed aside and many of the well-appointed but frugal arrangements made by or paid for by the couple.  Nothing would deter them from their vision.

The young guests in attendance were emotional clones in their insular worlds, but diverse in their ethnic backgrounds and sexual preferences.  If the coupling in attendance holds firm, mixed marriages of every description will be the new norm.  Misogynist, homophobic, and anti-immigration views will have no place in mid-21^st century millennial America.

The few married couples with children seemed to hold an elevated position among the throng and one could detect the ticking of biological clocks among the single women.  But the women were emancipated and assertive.  The men were deferential and supportive. Adopting the bride’s maiden name was a popular idea.  Gender equality seemed the order of the day.

This was a professional and geeky crowd trained to practice medicine, law and cutting their teeth at Goggle.  Not many tattoos, at least in places that were observable.  In other words, our future leaders.

A few observations have lead me to conclude that America is in good hands. First, these young adults were aloof but confident in their life choices and career paths.  The groom loves working with his hands and nixed his earlier plans to earn a PhD in history to become a plumber.  Unlike my generation, they are not about attacking the choices made by their parents. They are simply ignoring what came before and busy taking action to create new social norms and business infrastructure.

Second, these young people care about the environment.  They make choices big and small with sustainability and carbon usage in mind.   I sense the environment will grow into a political and economic juggernaut as they age and seize the reigns of power.  Within my lifetime, Americans will be asked to sacrifice material wealth in order to address climate change and other fallout from industrialization.

Third, millennial America is well positioned to transition America into the information age. Their problem solving skills in medicine, law, accounting, finance and above all technology are digitally enhanced. No traditional method of doing business will be safe from their vision. The solutions to chronic problems they will develop are science fiction today.

In politics, the 2020 national election will see millennials as the largest demographic group in deciding our future.  They are not committed to partisan party politics but are intent on electing a President who values what they value.  There is a growing awareness that their parent’s generation has asked them to sacrifice a great deal in terms of high debt loads and lower economic outlooks, all to support the boomer’s crash into retirement.  Many millennials want to change this reality.

Lastly, I do not see this generation selling out their views for individual wealth.  One gets the sense that democratic socialism would match their worldview well.  A willingness to pay higher taxes in return for cradle to grave social benefits; job satisfaction and more free time. Less material wealth replaced by a healthier and happier life for them and their children.

I feel confident in leaving mother earth and American democracy behind with the kids.  The kids are alright. 

IT IS NOT “TIME FOR A CHANGE” IN THE COMMISSIONER’S NOVEMBER ELECTION

Many prospective voters are focused on the national elections in 2020 and giving little attention to this November’s contests.  For voters in Washington County, this would be a mistake.  This year’s race for County Commissioner will determine whether Washington County remains on the path of responsible decision-making or enters into an uncertain future with a high probability of a change for the worse. Unlike the well-worn political slogan, it is simply not “time for a change” in Washington County.

No one who follows local politics believes that Commissioners Larry Maggi, a Democrat, or Diana Irey Vaughan, a Republican, are in danger of losing their seats.  The future of Washington County governance will depend on whether incumbent Democrat, Harlan Shober, or Republican challenger, Nick Sherman, wins the third seat for Commissioner.  

Voter registration has become more Republican in recent years.  In the event that Democrats do not turn out to vote, Washington County could enter 2020 with a Republican majority on the Board.  This was almost the result in 2015 when Mr. Shober won his Commissioner seat by the narrow margin of 35 votes over his Republican challenger.

Let me be clear, I am not a die-hard local Democratic supporter.  I disagree with the present Board of Commissioners on several issues.  I felt that the court mandated money spent on tax reassessment was important and warranted.  I was not in favor of privatizing the Washington County Health Center.  I would like to see more County resources dedicated to mass transportation and social issues.  I believe that the County has a responsibility to provide more economic assistance to the City of Washington and other struggling municipalities.

Despite my concerns, it is impossible to ignore the facts.  The present Board of Commissioners works well together and governs with a minimum of political rancor.  Washington County has faced many challenges over the past decade.  By all appearances, the incumbent Commissioners have been adept at incorporating new economic wealth from fracking operations and proximity to a major urban center into a desirable place to live and work. 

The unemployment rate in Washington County is at record lows.  Many new businesses have located their operations here. Each year, more tourists visit the plethora of festivals and activities within our borders.  For these and other positive developments, all three incumbent Commissioners have earned the right to be re-elected.

Full disclosure, I know Harlan Shober and find him to be an accessible, hardworking Commissioner. It was impressive to me that his fellow Commissioners across Pennsylvania voted him President of their statewide association in 2018. Before serving as Commissioner for 8 years, Mr. Shober earned his political stripes as the former Chairman of Chartiers Township Board of Supervisors.  I do not know Republican challenger, Nick Sherman. I must give him points for honesty when he states on his campaign website: “We are doing well in Washington County.”

To illustrate what can go terribly wrong, consider the 1996 Commissioner’s race in Allegheny County. Two Republicans, Larry Dunn and Bob Cranmer, won the election, creating a Republican majority for the first time in six decades.

The new Republican administration quickly went to work firing Department heads with many years of experience and replacing them with political appointees and conservative ideologues.  One of the first actions of the new Commissioners was a 20-percent property tax cut, implemented before spending cuts were in place.  Allegheny County’s reserves of $80 million quickly disappeared.  When the budgets of essential county services were finally slashed, a host of lawsuits were filed.  Attempts to privatize County services resulted in union protests and more lawsuits.

The following two years were a mashup of chaos, bumbling, bickering, financial problems and lowered bond ratings. Allegheny County voters responded by voting to get rid of the three headed Commissioner system in 1999 and adopted a County Executive with a 15 member council.

Washington County can point to its own misplaced “time for a change” moment that occurred in January of 2000. Under the pretense to balance the budget, newly elected Democratic Commissioner, John Bevec, joined forces with Republican Diana Irey to terminate several well qualified department heads. Among the dismissals were the head of County Administrator, Bill McGowen, and the Director of Parks and Recreation, Andy Baechle.  Mr. Baechle was recognized as an expert in his field and had secured 3 million in grants during his tenure.  Allegheny County quickly hired him at twice the salary.

Many in Washington County interpreted the dismissals of professional department heads as more political than economic. The one Commissioner who had worked to develop a strong lineup to run the County, Bracken Burns, was outraged by the maneuvering of his fellow Commissioners. In interviews with local newspapers, he called the actions a “political purge” and “the dumbing down of Washington County.” Predictably, until the next election, County government was marred by infighting and little was accomplished.

In this November’s election, there is no reason to roll the dice with an uncertain future and risk repeating the post-election meltdowns described above. The voters of Washington County know what they have with the three incumbent Commissioners.  They are a team that has earned the right to remain in office so they can continue to work together and provide thoughtful leadership and a stable government.

THE IMPORTANCE OF THE BALTICS

Part I of my essay explored my impressions of the people and history of the Baltic region. Part II will discuss the importance of the Baltics within the context of recent foreign affairs.

I must begin with our mode of transportation through the Baltics.  Cruise ships are perhaps the most diverse ecosystems in the world.  A captain from Italy, wait staff from every third world country and our cabin porter from tiny French Guiana in South America. The passengers are no less diverse, just older and better off economically. I enjoyed watching conservative Republicans from the United States sharing tables with families from Hong Kong, Egypt and Nigeria. Like Dorothy, they knew they were not in Kansas anymore. Multiculturalism is alive and well on the high seas.

I seemed to be among the few who felt comfortable raising political issues with fellow passengers within this confined environment. But what better opportunity to take the world’s temperature on Trump, Brexit, Paris yellow jackets, Putin and the demonstrations in Hong Kong?  

On our last excursion in Denmark, a family from Hong Kong was afraid they would not be able to fly home because of the airport demonstrations. A couple from Paris described Prime Minister Macron as a robot, with no emotional affect. The English we spoke with all viewed Prime Minister Boris Johnson as the ticket to economic and political ruin.  Everyone wanted to hear our impressions of President Trump and what the future holds for America.

We learned that every country in the Baltics has adopted some degree of cradle to grave benefits for its citizens, with high taxes to pay for these programs.  Free health care, education, pensions and elder care are universal. From the many conversations I had with our excursion guides and with local citizens, democratic socialism is imbedded deep in the DNA of the Baltics as a model that guarantees the basic needs of all citizens. I heard many complaints concerning political leadership, but none concerning the democratic socialism economic model.

Next, we learned that favoring social programs for all citizens does not translate into favoring open borders or mass immigration. Almost everyone I spoke to in every Baltic country we visited wanted some form of limited/controlled immigration. It was not difficult to translate this widely held view into the rise of populist political leaders throughout the Baltic region.

The Baltics has its own unique history of multinational trade versus national interests that I found fascinating.  The Hanseatic League was a powerful commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds and market towns, first formed in the late 1100s. The League came to dominate Baltic maritime trade for many centuries.  Hanseatic cities had their own legal system and operated their own armies for mutual protection and aid.

On many of our excursions, we heard stories of local medieval citizens forced to choose between following orders from their King or from the transnational Hanseatic League.  Making the wrong choice resulted in mass slaughter.  Whole communities were burned to the ground.  The power and influence of the Hanseatic League based solely on economic interest, with little religious or national affiliation was greater than any multinational corporation or international trade pact that exists today.

Champions of the European Union have pointed to the Hanseatic League as a kind of prototype version of economic unification.  All of the Baltic countries we visited belong to the EU. Unlike Great Britain, no one we spoke to seemed eager to exit the EU.  The ease of travel and free trade with EU partners throughout Europe has served the Baltic region well. 

On the other hand, it is difficult to imagine that these countries would agree to expand the EU into a political alliance and to give up their ability to govern as independent nations.  Patriotism is high in tiny Latvia with its two million citizens; Denmark with its 6 million; and Russia with a population of over 144 million. Each country has its own creation myths, national heroes and milestones that are honored with great pride.

One of the challenges across the Baltic and indeed throughout Europe is to recognize the importance of celebrating unique national identity, without permitting patriotism to morph into nativist, racist views.  To illustrate this point, I will focus on tiny Estonia, population 1.3 million people.

As the fortunes of Estonia changed over the years of the modern era, one of its major streets was chronologically renamed: Lenin Street, Hitler Street, Stalin Street and now, Freedom Street.  Young, urban Estonians are fiercely independent and want no further intervention into their affairs.  But Estonia’s remarkable economic growth has remained in its capital, Tallinn, and poverty remains high in rural areas.

In July of 2019 the Conservative People’s Party won enough seats in the parliament to be included in the new government. The party’s leaders rally against migrants, same sex partnerships and the mainstream media.  They claim to be the champions of rural Estonians and are often aligned with Russian policy positions. 

Progressive Estonians have formed a coalition against the far right with a new movement: “Yes to Freedom, No to Lies.” They advocate not attacking the far right head on, but rather talking directly to citizens about “Estonian democratic values.”  As in the United States and in all western democracies, the struggle to maintain liberal democratic principles is a real crisis.  But for Estonians an illiberal outcome comes with immediate consequences. If democracy losses and Russia again dominates society, a major street in Tallinn will be renamed Putin Street.

For centuries, the Baltic region has been the buffer between Western Europe and Russia.  Nothing has changed this reality.  Under Putin, the Russian bear is again on the prowl, seeking to increase its sphere of influence and to tamp down domestic dissent.  Americans should pay close attention to tiny Estonia, the canary in the coal mine.

  

A TRIP AROUND THE BALTIC SEA

This essay will detail our experiences cruising on the Baltic Sea earlier this summer.  Part I will provide some background on the region and its people. Part II will give a political analysis of the Baltics and its role in shaping current events.

Our journey began in Stockholm, Sweden and would end two weeks later in Copenhagen, Denmark.  We traveled east to Helsinki, Finland and St Petersburg, Russia. Then headed down the coast of the small Baltic States, and swung west to Germany. We had extended land based stays in both Stockholm and Copenhagen.

The Baltic Sea and those nations surrounding it have never gained the recognition of its big sister, the Mediterranean. This is unfortunate because the history is rich, with many well-preserved medieval towns.  The palaces, castles and churches are among the most magnificent in the world. The warrior Vikings, followed by the Kingdom of Denmark, followed by Sweden, each took turns being the bully on the block. In modern history, Russia and Germany have fought for hegemony of the Baltic region.

The small Baltic countries of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania could do no better than roll with the political and military punches, which came far too often. Large but sparsely populated Finland always punched above its weight.  For an excellent analysis of modern Finnish history read Jared Diamond’s new book, Upheaval, which details Finland’s heroic battle against the Russians in the 1940 winter war.

One must be careful in drawing sweeping conclusions about a nation and its people based on short visits, but despite the close proximity of the countries we visited, each was distinctive.  The Scandinavian portion of the Baltics is much different from the small Baltic States that were formally under Soviet domination.  Sweden remained neutral during the world wars and its historical structures remained untouched. In Russia and the Baltic States the great palaces and churches were decimated and have been rebuilt.

The Swedes appear more reserved and introspective than the Danes.  Both countries treasure their Viking heritage and have not forgotten the centuries of war and conquest of one against the other.

The Russians are somewhat arrogant, much like the French, but with awful food. They do not smile often, but then the sun seldom shines in the summer and the winters are horrific and long in St Petersburg. Although not willing to vocalize their discontent to tourists, Russian patience with Putin appears to be wearing thin as they realize he is no Peter the Great and may not deserve his imperial pretensions. We were fortunate to escape St. Petersburg several days before local election protests erupted in Russian cities.

Russians take pride in selling Americans stuff they do not need at outrageous markups like nesting dolls (of course there is a Steeler version) and amber jewelry. Our favorite tourist initiative was a young girl who ran from bridge to bridge (20 bridges over 5 miles) to wave and dance over top our canal excursion as it passed under each bridge. By the end of our tour, she was receiving thunderous applause and generous tips.

The Finns are beautiful, artistic people who purchase more live theater and performing art tickets than Americans purchase movie tickets. One of our favorite stops was the open air Helsinki Market, full of salmon cakes, excellent crafts and artwork and a farmer from northern Finland selling his own lingonberry jam.

You get the feeling in Tallinn, Estonia and Riga, Latvia that the natives are simply thrilled to have their own small nation states, free of foreign intervention.  Both countries proudly fly the NATO flag next to their own as if to proclaim “never again.”

Our port in Germany was part of the old GDR, East Germany, prior to German reunification. The miracle here was how quickly the country was able to westernize the east into one seamless democracy, after years under communism.

Visits to smaller communities in the countryside provided their own distinctive pleasure.  Visby Sweden and Jelling Denmark were towns with century’s old thatched roofs and local pride in their medieval walls and ancient ruins. In Visby, a medieval festival was in full swing with hundreds of young Swedes in period dress. In Jelling, one of the oldest churches in Europe still stands near the Danish rune stone that first referenced both “Denmark” and “Christianity”.  The carvings on the face of this birth Stone appear on every Danish passport.

The number of palaces, castles and churches we visited could become mind numbing. My wife’s diary helped us to place each within the historical context of each country we visited. It is admirable that no matter how many times each structure was ravished by fire or war, they were quickly rebuilt as symbols of national pride.

There was much history to absorb and opportunity for further reading. Peter the Great (1672-1725) and Catherine the Great (1729-1796) had a hand in almost all we witnessed in Russia.  When one views St. Petersburg and realizes that the city is no older than our major American cities, the amount of splendor is hard to comprehend. King Gustav II of Sweden and Queen Margaret I of Sweden were both nation builders that deserve further study.

If you go, do not take hordes of dollars. The Baltics, sans Russia, are working to become a cashless region.  In Sweden, the number of retail cash transactions has fallen by 80%.  By comparison, America is at least a decade behind.

In part II of this essay I will consider some of the political implications of the Baltics in today’s foreign affairs.