Thursday, August 22, 2019

THE IMPORTANCE OF THE BALTICS



Part I of my essay explored my impressions of the people and history of the Baltic region. Part II will discuss the importance of the Baltics within the context of recent foreign affairs.

I must begin with our mode of transportation through the Baltics.  Cruise ships are perhaps the most diverse ecosystems in the world.  A captain from Italy, wait staff from every third world country and our cabin porter from tiny French Guiana in South America. The passengers are no less diverse, just older and better off economically. I enjoyed watching conservative Republicans from the United States sharing tables with families from Hong Kong, Egypt and Nigeria. Like Dorothy, they knew they were not in Kansas anymore. Multiculturalism is alive and well on the high seas.

I seemed to be among the few who felt comfortable raising political issues with fellow passengers within this confined environment. But what better opportunity to take the world’s temperature on Trump, Brexit, Paris yellow jackets, Putin and the demonstrations in Hong Kong?  

On our last excursion in Denmark, a family from Hong Kong was afraid they would not be able to fly home because of the airport demonstrations. A couple from Paris described Prime Minister Macron as a robot, with no emotional affect. The English we spoke with all viewed Prime Minister Boris Johnson as the ticket to economic and political ruin.  Everyone wanted to hear our impressions of President Trump and what the future holds for America.

We learned that every country in the Baltics has adopted some degree of cradle to grave benefits for its citizens, with high taxes to pay for these programs.  Free health care, education, pensions and elder care are universal. From the many conversations I had with our excursion guides and with local citizens, democratic socialism is imbedded deep in the DNA of the Baltics as a model that guarantees the basic needs of all citizens. I heard many complaints concerning political leadership, but none concerning the democratic socialism economic model.

Next, we learned that favoring social programs for all citizens does not translate into favoring open borders or mass immigration. Almost everyone I spoke to in every Baltic country we visited wanted some form of limited/controlled immigration. It was not difficult to translate this widely held view into the rise of populist political leaders throughout the Baltic region.

The Baltics has its own unique history of multinational trade versus national interests that I found fascinating.  The Hanseatic League was a powerful commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds and market towns, first formed in the late 1100s. The League came to dominate Baltic maritime trade for many centuries.  Hanseatic cities had their own legal system and operated their own armies for mutual protection and aid.

On many of our excursions, we heard stories of local medieval citizens forced to choose between following orders from their King or from the transnational Hanseatic League.  Making the wrong choice resulted in mass slaughter.  Whole communities were burned to the ground.  The power and influence of the Hanseatic League based solely on economic interest, with little religious or national affiliation was greater than any multinational corporation or international trade pact that exists today.
Champions of the European Union have pointed to the Hanseatic League as a kind of prototype version of economic unification.  All of the Baltic countries we visited belong to the EU. Unlike Great Britain, no one we spoke to seemed eager to exit the EU.  The ease of travel and free trade with EU partners throughout Europe has served the Baltic region well. 

On the other hand, it is difficult to imagine that these countries would agree to expand the EU into a political alliance and to give up their ability to govern as independent nations.  Patriotism is high in tiny Latvia with its two million citizens; Denmark with its 6 million; and Russia with a population of over 144 million. Each country has its own creation myths, national heroes and milestones that are honored with great pride.

One of the challenges across the Baltic and indeed throughout Europe is to recognize the importance of celebrating unique national identity, without permitting patriotism to morph into nativist, racist views.  To illustrate this point, I will focus on tiny Estonia, population 1.3 million people.

As the fortunes of Estonia changed over the years of the modern era, one of its major streets was chronologically renamed: Lenin Street, Hitler Street, Stalin Street and now, Freedom Street.  Young, urban Estonians are fiercely independent and want no further intervention into their affairs.  But Estonia’s remarkable economic growth has remained in its capital, Tallinn, and poverty remains high in rural areas.

In July of 2019 the Conservative People’s Party won enough seats in the parliament to be included in the new government. The party’s leaders rally against migrants, same sex partnerships and the mainstream media.  They claim to be the champions of rural Estonians and are often aligned with Russian policy positions. 

Progressive Estonians have formed a coalition against the far right with a new movement: “Yes to Freedom, No to Lies.” They advocate not attacking the far right head on, but rather talking directly to citizens about “Estonian democratic values.”  As in the United States and in all western democracies, the struggle to maintain liberal democratic principles is a real crisis.  But for Estonians an illiberal outcome comes with immediate consequences. If democracy losses and Russia again dominates society, a major street in Tallinn will be renamed Putin Street.

For centuries, the Baltic region has been the buffer between Western Europe and Russia.  Nothing has changed this reality.  Under Putin, the Russian bear is again on the prowl, seeking to increase its sphere of influence and to tamp down domestic dissent.  Americans should pay close attention to tiny Estonia, the canary in the coal mine.


  

A TRIP AROUND THE BALTIC SEA




This essay will detail our experiences cruising on the Baltic Sea earlier this summer.  Part I will provide some background on the region and its people. Part II will give a political analysis of the Baltics and its role in shaping current events.

Our journey began in Stockholm, Sweden and would end two weeks later in Copenhagen, Denmark.  We traveled east to Helsinki, Finland and St Petersburg, Russia. Then headed down the coast of the small Baltic States, and swung west to Germany. We had extended land based stays in both Stockholm and Copenhagen.

The Baltic Sea and those nations surrounding it have never gained the recognition of its big sister, the Mediterranean. This is unfortunate because the history is rich, with many well-preserved medieval towns.  The palaces, castles and churches are among the most magnificent in the world. The warrior Vikings, followed by the Kingdom of Denmark, followed by Sweden, each took turns being the bully on the block. In modern history, Russia and Germany have fought for hegemony of the Baltic region.

The small Baltic countries of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania could do no better than roll with the political and military punches, which came far too often. Large but sparsely populated Finland always punched above its weight.  For an excellent analysis of modern Finnish history read Jared Diamond’s new book, Upheaval, which details Finland’s heroic battle against the Russians in the 1940 winter war.

One must be careful in drawing sweeping conclusions about a nation and its people based on short visits, but despite the close proximity of the countries we visited, each was distinctive.  The Scandinavian portion of the Baltics is much different from the small Baltic States that were formally under Soviet domination.  Sweden remained neutral during the world wars and its historical structures remained untouched. In Russia and the Baltic States the great palaces and churches were decimated and have been rebuilt.

The Swedes appear more reserved and introspective than the Danes.  Both countries treasure their Viking heritage and have not forgotten the centuries of war and conquest of one against the other.

The Russians are somewhat arrogant, much like the French, but with awful food. They do not smile often, but then the sun seldom shines in the summer and the winters are horrific and long in St Petersburg. Although not willing to vocalize their discontent to tourists, Russian patience with Putin appears to be wearing thin as they realize he is no Peter the Great and may not deserve his imperial pretensions. We were fortunate to escape St. Petersburg several days before local election protests erupted in Russian cities.

Russians take pride in selling Americans stuff they do not need at outrageous markups like nesting dolls (of course there is a Steeler version) and amber jewelry. Our favorite tourist initiative was a young girl who ran from bridge to bridge (20 bridges over 5 miles) to wave and dance over top our canal excursion as it passed under each bridge. By the end of our tour, she was receiving thunderous applause and generous tips.

The Finns are beautiful, artistic people who purchase more live theater and performing art tickets than Americans purchase movie tickets. One of our favorite stops was the open air Helsinki Market, full of salmon cakes, excellent crafts and artwork and a farmer from northern Finland selling his own lingonberry jam.

You get the feeling in Tallinn, Estonia and Riga, Latvia that the natives are simply thrilled to have their own small nation states, free of foreign intervention.  Both countries proudly fly the NATO flag next to their own as if to proclaim “never again.”

Our port in Germany was part of the old GDR, East Germany, prior to German reunification. The miracle here was how quickly the country was able to westernize the east into one seamless democracy, after years under communism.

Visits to smaller communities in the countryside provided their own distinctive pleasure.  Visby Sweden and Jelling Denmark were towns with century’s old thatched roofs and local pride in their medieval walls and ancient ruins. In Visby, a medieval festival was in full swing with hundreds of young Swedes in period dress. In Jelling, one of the oldest churches in Europe still stands near the Danish rune stone that first referenced both “Denmark” and “Christianity”.  The carvings on the face of this birth Stone appear on every Danish passport.

The number of palaces, castles and churches we visited could become mind numbing. My wife’s diary helped us to place each within the historical context of each country we visited. It is admirable that no matter how many times each structure was ravished by fire or war, they were quickly rebuilt as symbols of national pride.

There was much history to absorb and opportunity for further reading. Peter the Great (1672-1725) and Catherine the Great (1729-1796) had a hand in almost all we witnessed in Russia.  When one views St. Petersburg and realizes that the city is no older than our major American cities, the amount of splendor is hard to comprehend. King Gustav II of Sweden and Queen Margaret I of Sweden were both nation builders that deserve further study.

If you go, do not take hordes of dollars. The Baltics, sans Russia, are working to become a cashless region.  In Sweden, the number of retail cash transactions has fallen by 80%.  By comparison, America is at least a decade behind.

In part II of this essay I will consider some of the political implications of the Baltics in today’s foreign affairs.