EGYPT- 6000 YEARS OF HISTORY

“The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page” Saint Augustine

While Donald Trump was tearing up the federal government, and leaving chaos in his wake, we were tearing through northern Egypt in six days. Our travels were full of adventures and surprises in one of the world’s oldest civilizations.

When I write about travel it is difficult to decide whether to focus on what we have experienced and felt, or how the country we visited fits into the mosaic of the modern world. This commentary will briefly address both.

First, the Egyptian people. While thirty million live in poverty, their warmth, humor, and pride in being Egyptian is overwhelming. The government employs many at meager wages. The average hourly wage is $2.44 dollars or $430 dollars a month.

Small shops prevail that specialize in every type of product and service. For example, in Alexandra, there were dozens of establishments in the same area, selling nothing but used car parts. We felt safe walking in the cities at night, with traffic and street activity comparable to NYC.

Second, one of the richest countries in terms of historical significance and the development of civilization, is now a third world country with many problems. The local currency has been repeatedly devalued. Fifty Egyptian pounds are equal to one dollar. Once the breadbasket of the ancient world, Egypt now imports most of its food products. The western hotels are like modern oases near the major attractions. Lack of housing is evident and overcrowding is everywhere. In Cairo, at the sprawling City of the Dead, 300,000 impoverished Egyptians live on small family burial plots over the bodies of their ancestors.

Third, Egypt has fewer natural resources than neighboring Arab countries, which export large amounts of oil and gas to subsidize their populations. Egypt exports inexpensive sand to be cleaned in Turkey and then shipped to Silicon Valley. Half-finished roads, bridges, buildings and sidewalks are everywhere. Tourism is a major industry and many educated Egyptian’s leave to work in other countries.

Arrival time in Cairo was 7 am giving us two full days to explore before joining our tour. We presented our bucket list at the hotel travel desk in Giza and like magic a knowledgeable driver appeared. First stop, the brand new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM). Within a stone’s throw of the Great Pyramid, I predict this modern architectural masterpiece will soon be world famous.  One of the two giant statutes of Ramses II greeted us at the entrance. Inside, the antiquities were well organized and labeled. A magnificent five level staircase, decorated with imposing pharaoh statutory leads the visitor to a panoramic view of the famous pyramids.

The next day, still suffering from jet lag, but eager for more, we were driven into old Cairo to take in the Citadel, overlooking the city. Inside was the iconic Mohamed Ali Mosque, built by the well-loved founder of modern Egypt. 

 

We then visited the Christian Coptic district to view some of the world’s oldest churches.  The most famous was the shelter site of the Holly Family when they escaped to Egypt. We finished off the day at a reputable jewelry store to purchase a cartouche (your name in Egyptian symbols) and at an emporium for exotic spices and teas.

Our tour group came together the next morning for a long day at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo which holds tens of thousands of antiquities and to the Giza pyramid complex. The Great Sphinx is located nearby.

Early the next morning, off to Alexandria with a stop at a very old but busy Coptic Monastery along the way. Our evening dinner at the famous seaport, founded by Alexander in 320 BC, was a whole grilled black bass, covered in vegetables and spices.

The first full day in Alexandria began at the recently renovated Montaza Palace and Gardens. This was followed by Roman ruins of a Noble’s underground catacombs. This exhibit was highly decorated with raised plaster reliefs and colorful paintings. Next, we visited “Pompey’s Pillar”, the only ancient monument in Alexandria still standing in its original location. 

We moved on to the Qaitbay Citadel, site of the now destroyed large ancient lighthouse and wonder of the ancient world. The imposing Citadel is considered one of the most important medieval defensive strongholds along the Mediterranean. The day ended with a stop at the modern Library of Alexandria, built in the same location as the most significant library of the ancient world.

 

On our return to Cairo, we spent several hours in Egypt’s first ancient capital, Memphis. This is where the colossal Rameses ll statues were discovered along with many other important antiquities. We then traveled to Sakkara on the edge of the Sahara Desert to view the lessor known but equally important Step Pyramid. In total, 118 pyramids have now been discovered. We ended our journey at one of the many “Carpet Schools” where village children are coaxed into the classroom by being taught the carpet making trade.

At 4 am the next morning we headed for the Cairo airport to fly to Casablanca, Morocco to meet up with a group of local lawyers. I will report on our Moroccan adventure in an upcoming commentary.

Modern Egypt unquestionably belongs to a social and cultural tradition that is Arab and Islamic.  Despite the overcrowding and poverty, the tourist experience is exceptional.  The country has one of the richest architectural traditions in the world. It is a history that spans 6000 years and includes edifices from the Pharaonic, Hellenistic, Roman, Islamic, and European traditions.  No travel destination in the world can offer such diversity.