Until recently, Portugal was not a major travel destination.
Most tourists wanted to visit larger European countries. Portugal was
considered too small or more of the same. Once word got out that Portugal
offered a unique travel experience, the American tourist began visiting in
record numbers. Moreover, Portugal has
become a popular landing spot for retired Americans seeking year round great
weather along the coast and an inexpensive standard of living.
We found Portugal to be a land of friendly people, great
cuisine, fascinating culture and shifting geography. The most striking social
dynamic for me was that in
Portugal, people realize they are a small country and must pull together. They
accept high taxes in return for cradle- to-grave benefits that all of society
enjoys. While Portuguese grumble about
the government, they see that the benefits of democratic socialism far outweigh
the limitations on wealth. Contrast this view with our wealthier, more diverse
country. America does not have a single important cultural, economic, political
or social force that is not tearing us apart more than bringing us together.
We were enticed to visit Portugal by reports of a fabulous
travel experience with low tour costs because of inexpensive meals and hotels.
Our journey was delayed twice by severe COVID outbreaks in Europe. Finally, in
early March, we were off for Lisbon. We chose to travel in early spring to
avoid the 100-degree temperatures and forest fires that have plagued inland
Portugal during the summer months. We landed three days before our tour began
to conquer jet lag and take in the museums and history of the capital.
In Lisbon, we were struck by the lack of medieval buildings.
While cobblestone streets and colorful azulejos
tile are everywhere, the city looks like what one would find in North America.
We learned that in 1775, an earthquake and tsunami destroyed Lisbon and the
enjoining areas. It was one of the deadliest climate events in human history
with 50,000 people losing their lives.
The art museums in Lisbon are small, but world class. The
day before our tour began; we journeyed to the nearby town of Sintra, one of
the many UNESCO World Heritage sites in the country. The destination is a
gorgeously landscaped hilltop favored by Portuguese royalty. The local summer
palace contains centuries of history and artifacts that gave us a foundation
for what was to come.
That evening we had a welcome dinner with our tour group and
prepared for the first of many early morning bus rides to cover the
countryside. Before leaving Lisbon, our group visited the famous Jeronimos Monastery,
Belem Tower and the Monument of the Discoveries. The latter two attractions pay
homage to the many explorers who left Lisbon to bring fame and fortune to their
country. On our last evening in Lisbon, we were treated to a traditional
Portuguese meal with melancholy Fado music.
Our next destination was Nazare. This sleepy surfing village
has turned into a worldwide sensation after an HBO documentary highlighted what
are considered the largest surfing waves in the world. Unfortunately, on the
day of our visit, the surf was calm. We had to make due with an incredible fish
stew, fresh bread and sardine pate.
Next on tour was the town of Tomar, a charming and naturally beautiful town in central Portugal.
It is popularly known as the Knights Templar City as it was once the seat of
this famous Order. The Knights Templar were persecuted in France and forced to
relocate in Portugal. In Tomar, the Knights built the Convent of Christ, one of
the important works of the Portuguese Renaissance.
In the morning, we were off to spend two days in Porto,
located in northern Portugal and the country’s second largest city. J.K.
Rowling conceived Harry Potter in this town, inspired by the breathtaking
riverfront views and ancient buildings. On our last evening, we broke away from
our group for a private dinner across the river, looking down on the lights of
Porto. A cruise on the Douro River capped our experience.
Our bus traveled onward to Guimares for a rainy day walking
tour. The town is another World Heritage site with a wealth of well-preserved
buildings from the middle ages. This was followed by visits to Viseu and Evora.
The former gave us a walking tour of the Jewish quarter and the Jewish museum.
The latter presented a town in central Portugal that can trace its history back
for 5,000 years.
Highlights in Evora were a well-preserved roman temple and a
sixteenth century chapel completely decorated with bones, skulls and entire
skeletons. Over the entrance to the chapel are the words, “We Bones Are Here,
Waiting for Yours.” The monks believed this chapel of bones was a helpful place to meditate on the transience of
material things in the undeniable presence of death.
On the way back to Lisbon and the wrap up of our adventure,
we were given excellent tours of a port winery and a cork factory. Portugal is
the world’s leading producer of natural cork. It is home to the largest cork
forest in the world covering 1.8 million acres of land. Cork purses and shoes
were in high demand in the gift shop.
Our trip was both entertaining and informative and included
other venues not discussed here. Do not hesitate to place Portugal on your
travel bucket list.
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