CUBA: IT’S COMPLICATED

When one asks a native Cuban a question about the state of affairs in their fascinating country, the answer is invariably, “it’s complicated”.  After spending five days in Havana and being introduced to all aspects of Cuban political, social, economic and artistic culture, I have come to believe that this remark is an understatement.

Recently, 24 intrepid lawyers, spouses and friends, interested in learning more about our neighbor off the coast of Miami, took advantage of a whirl wind cultural exchange sponsored by the Washington County Bar Association.  The tour was packed with lectures, diverse eating experiences, museums, an art colony and music/dance ensembles.  By the end of the five days, many of the questions and misconceptions surrounding this socialist island nation had been addressed.  But no one would disagree that Cuba remains a mystery wrapped in an enigma……and very complicated.

In talking to Cubans about their history and place in the world, the generation gaps are even more pronounced than in America.  Those born BC (before Castro) remember the inequality and corruption rampant in the Batista regime.  These older Cubans, now in their 70s and 80s tend to favor the revolution despite the many hardships.  Cubans born AC (after Castro) base their more pessimistic views on the Russian-Soviet withdrawal from the island during in the 90s.  This was a period of extreme economic hardship when many believed Cuba’s socialist experiment would not survive.

The even younger Cubans, now entering adulthood, are less conscious of the advances in education, healthcare and social equality achieved under socialism.  Many cannot wait to receive their excellent free education and seek to leave the island.   They are no doubt influenced by the siren call of uncensored internet and accessible media broadcasts from the U.S. mainland.

Another complication of Cuban culture is the dichotomy between the significant advances Castro’s socialism has achieved for the Cuban people, particularly those disadvantaged under the previous regime, and the massive dysfunctions caused by the same system.  On the one hand is the highest literacy rate in Latin America that turns out some of the best engineers and physicians in the world.  On the other hand, there are few employment opportunities in many segments of the economy. Professionals, even in essential fields, are poorly paid.  With the increase in tourism, it is not uncommon for a private restaurant owner or even a taxi driver with tips to earn more than a top surgeon.

Free comprehensive health care for all, with less infant mortality than the United States, is contrasted with little access to high tech medical equipment, because of the embargo. (see Nicholas Kristof NYT 1/18/19) As a result, every Cuban has some of the best basic universal health care in the world, with no opportunity to be treated with cutting edge procedures.

Housing in Cuba is complicated.  The homes of wealthy citizens who left the island following the revolution were turned into multifamily residences.  Cubans were permitted to purchase their living space from the government over a 15 year period.  The good news is that most Cubans now own their homes.  The bad news is that several generations of the same family often occupy the same space. Transfers of real estate are difficult with the value on the deed much lower than the market value.  Non Cubans are not permitted to own property which encourages very creative transactions with ex-pats who seek to live on the island.

New infrastructure and renovation of Cuban buildings has been nonexistent since the 1959 revolution.  Havana, once the pride of the Caribbean and Latin America, is now shabby at best.  Certain streets would not look out of place in the war torn Middle East. The problem is complicated by the embargo which makes it difficult to import building materials when other necessities are in high demand.  Moreover, Cuban housing regulations do not provide for maintaining common areas of residential buildings. Accordingly, there is no incentive for owners in a building to repair stained facades, crumbling steps, or dingy hallways. Lastly, new investment on the island is going to build up the resort area, not Havana.

The Cuban citizens’ relationship with their country is complicated.  My observation is that many complain about socialism with its dysfunctional economy, authoritarian government and stifling bureaucracy that manages to “find a problem for every solution.”  At the same time, Cubans are strongly nationalistic and are well aware that the violence and abject poverty found throughout Latin America does not exist in Cuba.

Guns are not permitted, with even long guns used for hunting in rural areas tightly controlled. Illegal drug use is nominal with strict criminal penalties and there are no gangs of disillusioned youth.  Havana streets are among the safest in the world.

One comes away from Cuba amazed at the resourcefulness of the people in dealing with the many complications.  The fact that 60,000 American vintage cars are still on the streets of Havana, wowing tourists, is itself a testimony to making the best of things. A “hybrid” vehicle is one that is kept running from parts pirated from many makes and models.

For under $5.00 Cuban young people can enjoy a romantic night on the town. This would include a movie (prices are subsidized by the government) ice cream at one of the famous parlors and a moon lit stroll down the Malecon, the five-mile sea walk that separates Havana from the ocean.

Cubans have learned how to circumvent the socialist system to get what they need in a variety of ways.  Many have second and third sources of income in addition to the low government wages.  When there is a crack in the monolithic socialist economy that permits a small degree of private enterprise, restaurants, creative arts groups and small businesses flourish.  Families work around the slim pickings on Cuban television by renting a black market video box full of current media, streamed from the U.S. over the internet.

Part two of this commentary will discuss the changing political environment in Cuba and the state of Cuban-American relations.