A FALL TRIP TO THE SOUTHERN LOW COUNTRY

This autumn, we were looking forward to a November trip to Portugal when the ongoing pandemic convinced us to reconsider. Rather than struggle with masks and constant testing while traveling through this beautiful country, we postponed our plans until March of 2023. We had not been away all summer and were eager to travel, but where? Sedona and San Diego were on the list but in the end, my spouse was set on returning to the low country in the Deep South. Savannah, Georgia and Hilton Head, South Carolina became our destination.

Expect the unexpected when flying over the next six months.  The airlines drastically cut back their operations because of COVID. They have struggled to replace staff to meet the growing demand.  We scheduled a 6 A.M. flight to ensure the plane would be on the ground (it was) so that we would make our DC connection to Savannah (we did not).  

Mechanical difficulties delayed our flight and we arrived in DC just as the connecting flight was boarding. Our luggage made it on the plane and we were directed to wait until late the next day to continue our trip. Not to be deterred, we immediately booked a flight to Charleston, two hours from our destination. Upon landing, we found a one-way rental car at an outrageous price and drove to the Savannah airport to pick up our booked rental car and luggage.

For the rest of the week we were treated to beautiful November weather, small crowds and outstanding dinners. The old town in Savannah features many fine Hotels situated in renovated warehouses near the river.  The famous moss draped squares are within walking distance as is the old town walking market, featuring hundreds of small shops.

We spent a fascinating afternoon at the Ships of the Sea Maritime Museum, with exhibits from the great era of Atlantic trade. Of special interest were the descriptions of naval encounters during both the American Revolution and Civil War. A new exhibit presented a multi-media depiction of the middle passage that brought African slaves to the Deep South. The message was clear that the slave trade was a massive crime against humanity.

 Our third day saw us on the road, heading north to Hilton Head. For some reason, this barrier island has developed a reputation as more sophisticated than its more pedestrian neighbor, Myrtle Beach. The only evidence of this was the more exclusive Sea Pines Plantation that charges a toll to enter this exclusive enclave.

The Resort fees and lodging on Sea Pines are more expensive than the rest of Hilton Head. Sea Pines is the home of the beautiful Harbour Town and its iconic lighthouse and golf course. At the end of this portion of the island is the world famous Salty Dog Café where one can lunch overlooking the harbor and buy merchandise of every description.

We booked one of the many resort hotels outside of Sea Pines. The off-season rates were reasonable and the location was only blocks from a well-kept beach. Upon our arrival, we made dinner reservations at several interesting restaurants. Each day started with a light hotel breakfast where we made plans for the day, on either the beach or exploring the island.

Our day trips included a morning at the small out of the way Audubon nature preserve. It provided a pleasant walk around a small lake with numerous songbirds indigenous to the South, serenading us. Our next stop was a picnic lunch at the Costal Discovery Museum that featured a restored family home and outbuildings.  The exhibits described Hilton Head in the laid-back days before a bridge connected the island to the mainland. Surrounding the homestead were miles of hiking trails.

Before departing the island, we took in one of the many boat tours that provide guaranteed encounters with the local bottlenose dolphins. We photographed Harbour Town and the lighthouse on our cruise around the bay. Our final dinner was an early meal at the marina as the sun went down.

The next morning we traveled back to Savannah where we would spend our last day before an evening flight to Pittsburgh. The weather was sunny and warm, the perfect opportunity to tour Old Fort Jackson, a National Historic Landmark only minutes from downtown Savannah. An enthusiastic young woman, garbed as a confederate soldier, gave us a tour of the complex, the oldest brick fortifications on the East Coast. She demonstrated many of the armaments adorning the fort and the smell of gunpowder was heavy in the air.

Our flight back home was uneventful and gave us time to reflect on how nice it would be to live in the Deep South during the fall and winter months. However, upon arrival, the blustery Western Pennsylvania weather felt about right for the upcoming Thanksgiving Holiday.d, water, and living things to gain more environmental awareness. Explore history, culture,